Dori ***UPDATE***

I'm going to be fostering a little 4-year-old girl that has been pretty badly abused. She was with another rescue and they couldn't find a foster home for her so she was fostered with Central Florida Pug Rescue for a while and then adopted out. For whatever reason, she's being turned back in and since I'm home a lot, I said I would foster her. Her previous foster mom is going to help me out with her, but I thought maybe I could get some advice from you all.

Her story is that she was abused at a young age. She was swung around by her tail, which not only has caused her tail to be amputated, but she is now incontinent. She was kept in a cage for several months for boarding (not by CFPR) and has anxiety issues, which cause her to spin when she gets anxious. She is on a light dose of medication for this. She wears diapers, but before being adopted out was at the point that she didn't need them as she was taken out frequently.

I know we have a few spinners here (Lucy?) and was wondering what steps you've taken to ease the anxiety so she does not spin? Our house is pretty quiet and low key so I'm hoping that will help her some. I've never fostered an abused pug before so I'm a bit nervous and want to make sure her adjustment is smooth. She's been through so much in her short life, I just want her to be happy and know she's loved. Any advice with the incontinence is also appreciated. We have all tile floors, so I'm thankful for that! I'll post pictures as soon as I get her.

The only downfall is that we have a 3-pug maximum at my apartment, so my other foster (Cole) that I've had since November will be leaving me.

That poor little soul. I have no experience, but I think you'll be the perfect foster mum. Sounds like her spine must have been damaged in the abuse and she probably has very few messages travelling up and down it. As to the spinning, I would try to occupy her mind as much as possible with whatever works. Maybe even one of those toys that makes them "think". Thanks for looking after her. Sorry Cole had to move on.

People are just assholes. How can they do that to a dog????!!!!

Sabra, you are wonderful to take Dori and foster her.

I think the key with the spinning is to try and redirect - but, you should notice it lessen as you work on her anxiety. I think someone (Blanche?) posted a great article on working with under-confident and shy dogs. The pugs I have had that had anxiety responded very well to a lot of affection and reassurance. Those two things can go a long way to healing.

Bless you and this little pug girl.

I'd like to take whoever did this to her and spin them around by whatever hangyout thing I could grab and if it tears off them - oh well. What evil is in this world sometimes is almost impossible to grasp.

I know you will be so good for her. I would think just tons of love will go a long way.

MackandMattiesMom wrote:Her story is that she was abused at a young age. She was swung around by her tail, which not only has caused her tail to be amputated, but she is now incontinent.

that is unbelievable. poor baby! I wish I had some advice. Just wanted to say, Thank You for fostering this little girl. I can't wait to see pics.

That is heart breaking. Poor mite. Patience & love is what will help her trust again. Don't force it, let in happen on her time. Thank you for being there for her.

Poor little girl. I'm so glad you are going to foster her. I can't believe what people dog.

Poor little thing. My last foster was a spinner, at first it was pretty bad but as she got more comfortable it eased a bit. I don't have any great advice on how to handle it, at times I just let her do her thing and other times I would pick her up and hold her, that totally stopped her from spinning, but I read not to do that because it encourages it.
After you have had her for a bit you will see what helps.
God luck, I hope she is able to overcome her fears and realize all people are not aholes.

That's just sickening. I'm so glad that poor little girl ended up with a wonderful person like you. Thanks for taking care of her.

I'd like to smack those people. I hope she improves and finds a lovely furever family.

Be very very patient.
Redirect her when she starts spinning, but be careful not to make the redirection a reward. Nor should it be a punishment of course. Just distract her or try to remove the source of the anxiety, if you can.
Lots of calm interaction when she's ready for it to build up trust and, eventually, she will get there. It won't happen overnight, but it will happen.
And boy, when it does, it is the best thing in the world!!!!!

It amazes me how people have no feeling to do such terrible things to animals.

I look forward to hearing updates and progress on this little soul.

Puggered wrote:Be very very patient.
Redirect her when she starts spinning, but be careful not to make the redirection a reward.

Yes, if my foster would get going I also would try to get her to play or chat with her to take her mind off of it. She has now been with her new family for about 5 months and she still spins a bit but nothing like she did when she first got out of the mill.

Poor little girl. People are the end. Just the end.

Here's the article on working with shy/fearful dogs:

Helping a shy/fearful dog.
Long time back, we were given a list of tips to help a shy, under-confident small dog that was fostered, then adopted. Some of these may be applicable for your girl....or variations. Selected ones helped the small dog:

*Encourge her to do chasey games, when a treat or toy is tied at the end of a string.
And she's encouraged to chase it. Apparently that helps the
submissive dog to 'feel' & act more dominantly.

* Try to protect the dog's personal space. Do not let strangers
overwhelm him, etc. You may not be aware of a passersby
actually petting the dog. It is amazing what really goes on. Do
not allow people (even family members) to pet the dog on the top
of the head or behind his ears. Instead, pat and scratch the dog
on his chest and neck. This is much less threatening to a dog.

* Teach the dog how to play with you. Entice the dog for a game
of chase, with the dog chasing you. If he won't chase you while
you're running, try crawling, yes really. Crawl on the floor on all
fours away from him, then lie down and roll. Cover your face and
make high-pitched whimpering noises. This should entice the
dog to come over to you. This is success, praise the dog and
then walk away and try it again later.

* If the dog is scared of people, instruct people to sit down with
their backs facing the dog. Then, hold out a their hand (behind
them) for the dog with a food treat in it. Gradually, the person
can turn so that they are sideways, and then facing the dog.
Avoid eye-contact until the dog is no longer scared of this
particular person.

* Do not stroke a scared dog and say "It's OK." This is perceived
as praise by the dog and will make it more likely that the dog will
repeat his fear again next time. Instead, give robust pats on the
sides and act happy, pretend there is nothing to be scared
about, and if at all possible, remove him from the frightful
situation.

* Yawning is a calming signal for dogs. When your dog is
nervous or unsure of a situation or person, you (and that person)
should sit down by your dog, turn your head and focus slightly
away from the dog, and yawn continually. I am not talking about
30 seconds of yawning, rather 3-30 minutes of consistent,
passive yawning. Try it, over time it should make your dog more
comfortable.

* It is important to avoid eye-contact, especially if the dog is used
to running away or submissive peeing. When you are able to be
close to the dog, kneel or sit down so you are on his level and
turn your head away from the dog and lick your lips. Continue
doing this until the dog either ceases being nervous, or brings
their face closer to yours in a gesture of friendship. If/when this
occurs, praise the dog's efforts with kind words and a gentle
chest rub, however still avoid eye-contact. Whenever you are
close to a scared or submissive dog, it is important to avoid
eye-contact so the dog will not feel threatened in any way.

* If she's food oriented give visitors/family members some little treats to hold in their
hands & occasionally drop next to her as they walk by.

* Do not over-stimulate or push the dog too far to fast. Let the
dog regulate how close he can get to other people, places and
things. If you push a scared dog too far, you will create a
neurosis that will be more difficult to treat.

* If the dog is scared of human contact, even from you, pet the
dog unexpectedly as you walk by. Do it quickly and friendly, and
then keep walking. The dog will probably be scared and
surprised, for if he knew you were going to pet him, he would've
run away and not allowed it. By sneaking in friendly petting with
no consequences (you simply walk away) the dog will learn that
being touched is not a bad thing.

* Being scared is very stressful. Exercise is one of the most
beneficial ways to relieve stress, so make sure your dog gets
plenty of it. If your dog likes other dogs (if you don't know, find
out) I strongly recommend that you find a dog for him to play with
on a weekly basis (more often, even better). Canine
companionship is very important to dogs, and especially a dog
that does not trust many humans, another canine can relieve
more stress than anything else. Be sure to allow the dogs to
romp around and play unrestricted (except for a fence) until they
tire out. This may be one of the best therapies that you can give
a shy dog.

This is a great article on working with puppy mill dogs. A lot of it you will already know, but has some useful tips as well:

Rehabilitating a Puppy Mill Dog
Updated 4/1/07
by
Michelle Bender and Kim Townsend, copyright 2007
Please do not distribute without attribution
Disclaimer: The following is the opinion of the authors (Michelle Bender of A New Start on Life http://www.anewstartonlife.com/and Kim Townsend of www.petshoppuppies.com) and is based on years of experience with puppy mill dogs; we are not veterinarians or professional trainers. Please note that an adopted puppy mill rescued dog may be at different stages of rehab so we have tried to start this from the beginning. Permission is granted to use this article, unedited, on your website or in print, as long as credit is linked to this page.
Every mill survivor is different. What works on one, or many, will completely fail on others; the only thing that is consistent is that they will need lots of patience, understanding, love, and probably most importantly, unconditional acceptance of what they are and what their limitations may be.
At first glance a mill survivor may look like many of your friends' dogs; maybe not a perfect example of the breed, but close. What you won't see is the condition they were in when they came into rescue. Many have fur so matted that it all had to be shaved off, and even the short haired breeds suffer from thin dull coats. Many times removing the filth and matting have revealed open sores, usually from flea allergies or sarcoptic mange. Their ears are often full of filth and usually mites, and some survivors suffer from permanent hearing loss because of untreated ear infections. Most survivors require the removal of rotten teeth, even young dogs. Their gums are usually very infected and the teeth have excessive buildup on them. Many vets who are not familiar with puppy mill rescued dogs will miscalculate the age of the dog if using only the teeth as their guide. Many survivors also suffer from swollen, splayed and sore feet from so much time walking on wire. While finally getting some good nutrition and extensive medical care after arriving in rescue, all too often there remains the psychological damage that can't be fixed with a bath, medicine, or surgery.
We would love to say that every puppy mill survivor only needs love to turn it into a wonderful family pet, but that would be a lie. Love is definitely needed in large amounts, but so is patience. The damage done during the years in the mill usually can be overcome, but it takes time and dedication. It takes a very special adopter for one of these dogs. Not being "up to it" is no crime, but you need to be honest with yourself, and us, about your expectations. These dogs have already been through more than their share of heartache and if your entire family is not willing to make the commitment, the dog is better off staying in our care until the perfect home for them is found.
Handling:
Many mill survivors have spent their entire lives in the mill with only an elevated wire cage to call home. Puppies growing up in a mill miss out on many crucial socialization periods with humans and they never learn to trust, to love, or to play. They have had minimum physical contact with people and have virtually no concept of what to expect (or what is expected of them) when they are placed in a family situation. Their life in the mill may have been what we would consider unpleasant, but it is the only life they have ever known. In the mill, they were probably fed and watered using automatic dispensers, and their feces and urine was only cleaned after it fell through the wire that they lived on. Actual human contact normally came when they were being vaccinated, dewormed, or moved to a new cage to breed or to whelp puppies.
Many of the quirks that mill dogs might have will be discovered while the dog is still in our rescue, but there are things that may develop after the dog feels a little more comfortable in your home. Most of the dogs we encounter have had their spirit broken many years before and aggression is not normally something we encounter; however, there are memory triggers that the dog may experience after it is settled in your home, so we will talk briefly about these.
The physical contact that they have received probably has not been pleasant. For one thing, because they are not handled enough, they are scared. Many mills handle their "stock" by the scruff of the neck. They have work to do, and don't really want to stand around holding some stinky little dog any longer than necessary. It is not uncommon for these survivors to be sensitive at the backs of their necks, after all, touch there brings the unexpected. Many mill dogs will try to always face you, not trusting you enough to give you easy access to them from behind. NEVER startle a mill survivor from behind: you will lose any trust that you may have gained. Always make sure that they are anticipating being picked up and consistently tell them what you are going to do with the same word, like "up". It is not uncommon for a mill dog to drop their bellies to the floor when they know you are going to pick them up, some will even roll on their backs, often urinating in the process. This is a submissive move on the dog's part, and while it may be frustrating trying to pick up a dog in this position, these dogs will seldom show aggression in their lives. It is okay to pick up a dog while they are in this position, but if time is not of the essence, encourage the dog to come to you by sitting a few feet away and calling him. The most common posture we see in mill dogs is the "freeze;" the dog will initially try to escape you, but when they realize there is no escape, they simply freeze up--rigid, like a statue--and accept their "fate." This is a good time to really praise the dog--scratch his back or ears and speak gently to him--it goes a long way towards teaching him that human contact can be a good thing.
Always be gentle and try to avoid picking them up until you see that they are receptive to it. It's almost a “hostage” type situation to these dogs. Imagine how you would feel if taken hostage at gunpoint. The gunman may never harm you in any way, but you are aware of the danger the entire time, and you don't have the ability to leave when you want. No matter how nice the gunman is to you, you will never enjoy the experience and will always watch for an escape route; however, you can turn the tables around and see a ray of hope. Imagine the gunman has been captured and you decide to visit him in jail. Now you are in control. You call all the shots, and you have the ability to leave at any time. The bottom line is that these dogs have to progress at their own pace. Anything you force them to do will not be pleasant to them; let them visit with you on their terms, whenever possible..
Learning about the House:
Many times when you bring a mill survivor into your home, it is their instinct to hide in a quiet corner. Any new dog that you bring into your home should be kept separated from other family pets for 7 days. During this time it is fine to crate or confine them to a quiet area. After that, though, they should have exposure to the household. If crating, the crate should be in a central location. The ideal spot is one where there is frequent walking and activity. This allows the dog to feel safe in the crate, yet observe everyday activity and become accustomed to it; they need to hear the table being set, the dishwasher running, phones ringing, and people talking.
Very few mill dogs know what a leash is. After the quarantine, when the dog is out of the crate and supervised, it is not a bad idea to let them drag a leash around with them. Let them get used to the feel. It is easy to fall into the mindset that they must be pampered and carried everywhere, but leash training is important. It will make your life easier to have a leash trained dog, but it will also offer your dog confidence in the future.
Gaining Trust:
A mill dog has no reason to trust you. Your trust needs to be earned, little by little. Patience is a very important part of rehabbing a mill survivor. We have seen a lot of mill dogs that don't want to eat whenever people are around. It is important that your mill dog be fed on a schedule, with you nearby. You don't have to stand and watch over them, but you should be in the same room with them. They need to know that their yummy meal is coming from you. For the majority of mill dogs, accepting a treat right out of your hand is a huge show of trust. Offer treats on a regular basis especially as a reward. Don't concern yourself too much if your dog does not eat for a few days. Because most of our mill rescues have been fed with self-feeders and confined to small places, it is not uncommon for them to be a little overweight. If there is no vomiting or diarrhea and your dog is otherwise acting healthy, a few days of nibbling at their food while they learn to live by your schedule, is not going to hurt them. It is important to teach them that food is fed on a schedule and you should not be leaving food down at all times.
While you shouldn't force yourself upon your dog, she does need to get used to you. Sit and talk quietly while gently petting or massaging your dog. It is best to do this an area where she, not necessarily you, is the most comfortable. She probably won't like it at first, but given time she’ll adjust. Some dogs sadly, never will adjust, and we'lll talk more about them later.
Never allow friends to force attention on a mill survivor. Ask them not to look your dog directly in the eyes. It is not uncommon for mill dogs to simply never accept outsiders. Let your dog set the pace. If the dog approaches, ask them to talk quietly and hold out a hand. No quick movements. Ask that any barking be ignored. Remember that these dogs bark to warn and scare off intruders. If you acknowledge the barking you may be reinforcing it with attention. If you take your guest outside, you have just reinforced to your dog that barking will make the intruder go away.
Housebreaking:
A child spends the first one to two years of their life soiling their diaper and having you remove the dirty diaper and replace it with a clean one. A puppy mill dog spends its entire life soiling its living area. Potty training a child and housebreaking a puppy mill dog are the exact same procedures...you are UN-teaching them something that they have already learned is acceptable. A regular schedule, constant reinforcement, praise, and commitment on your part are musts! Would you scream at your child, march him to the bathroom and make him sit on the toilet AFTER you discovered he soiled his diaper? A dog is no different in this sense; scolding them after the deed is done is of no benefit to anyone.
The two most important things you can do are to get your new dog on a regular feeding schedule (which will put them on a regular potty schedule) and to observe them closely after feeding time.
Getting them on a premium, low residue food is very important. This will produce a stool that normally is firm (very easy to clean up) and only one or two bowel movements a day are normal. Low cost or over the counter foods have a lot of fillers, and it is very hard to get a dog on a regular cycle using these foods.
Before you even begin to housebreak them, you must learn their schedule. Most dogs will need to “go” right after eating. As soon as they are finished eating, command "outside". Always use the exact same word in the exact same tone. Watch them closely outside and observe their pattern as they prepare to defecate. Some will turn circles, some will scratch at the ground, some may find a corner, some may sniff every inch of the ground, some will get a strange look on their face...every dog is different and you have to learn to recognize how the dog will behave just before he goes; this way you will recognize it when he gets ready to go in the house.
We could give you a million tips that our adopters have found to work best for them, but as we have said, every dog is different. As long as you always keep in mind that housebreaking and potty training are one in the same, you should eventually see results. Never do to a dog what you would not do to a child. It may take a week, it may take a month, it may take a year...and sadly, some dogs will never learn. Never give up and never accept “accidents” as a way of life. In most cases, the success of housebreaking depends on your commitment.
While we have focussed mainly on bowel movements, urinating in the house is just as hard to correct as defecating in the house (if not worse). Below we will discuss "marking," which many people associate only with male dogs. We will go into that in more detail, but if urinating in the house remains a problem for your dog, we highly recommend crate training. This can be researched online in more detail, but if crate training is not working because your dog is soiling in the crate, you should discontinue the training immediately--as you are only reinforcing that it is okay to soil their area.
In general, if you can understand your dog's bowel patterns, you will usually find that they urinate before or after a bowel movement. Reinforce the positive and work on the negative, as most dogs will understand "outside" and associate it with both urinating and defecating. Of course, in the meantime, you will want to protect your carpets by either removing any that can be rolled up, or confining the dog to a tiled floor when you aren't holding it on your lap. This should only be done during the training process, as socialization is just as important as house training and often tiled floors are in areas that we don't spend a lot of time.
Marking:
Puppy mill survivors all have one thing in common...they were all used for breeding. A dog that marks its territory is 'warning' other dogs that this is its area...stay away! However, in a puppy mill situation, the dog's area is normally a 2X4 cage with other dogs in and around their 'territory'. It becomes a constant battle of establishing territory and it is not uncommon to see male and female survivors with marking problems.
Normally, marking is seen in dogs with a dominant nature. This is good in the sense that these dogs can normally withstand verbal correction better than submissive dogs. The word 'NO' will become your favorite word as you try to deal with the problem of dogs that mark. Don't be afraid to raise your voice and let the dog know that you are not happy. Always use the exact same word and don't follow 'NO' with "now what has mommy told you about that, you are a bad dog."
Dogs that are marking do not have to potty...taking them outside will not help. You have to teach them that it is not acceptable to do this in the house. The only way to do this is to constantly show your disappointment and stimulate their need to 'dominate' by allowing them more time outside, and even to areas where you know other dogs have been...like the park, or the nearest fire hydrant.
While you and your survivor learn about each other, and your survivor develops a sense of respect towards you, you will have to protect your home from the damage caused by marking. Here are a few tips that you will find helpful.
1. White vinegar is your best friend. Keep a spray bottle handy at all times. Use the vinegar anytime you see your dog mark. The vinegar will neutralize the smell that your dog just left behind. Using other cleaning products may actually cause your dog to mark over the same area again. Most cleaning products contain ammonia...the very scent found in urine. Your dog will feel the need to mark over normal cleaning products, but normally has no interest in areas neutralized by vinegar.
2. Potty Pads....your next best friend. These can be found in any pet store, but most 'housebreaking pads' are treated with ammonia to encourage a puppy to go on the pad instead of the carpet; since we are trying to discourage your dog from marking, these aren't always the best choice. You might check at a home medical supply store. The blue and white pads used to protect beds usually work best. Staple, tape or pin these pads (white side facing outward) to any area that your dog is prone to mark (walls, furniture, etc.). Do not replace the pads when your dog soils them...simply spray them down with vinegar. These are not a solution to the problem, but will help protect your home while you deal with the problem.
3. Scotch Guard. Scotch Guard is really nothing more than a paraffin based protector. It puts a waxy substance down which repels water and spills (and in our case, urine). You can make your own product by filling a spray bottle about 1/2 full of hot water. Shave off slivers of paraffin wax into the bottle (about 1/4 a bar should be fine) and then microwave until you don't see the slivers anymore. Shake and spray this onto the fabric areas you want to protect, such as the base of the sofa and the carpet below doorways or areas your dog is apt to mark. It may make the area stiff feeling at first but it will normally 'blend' in with normal household temperatures and humidity. (note: This is also great for high traffic areas of your home or along the carpet in front of the couch). After the first use, you will need to microwave the bottle and emerge the spray mechanism in a bowl of hot water so that any wax residue will melt.
With the use of vinegar and/or homemade scotch guard, you should test a small area of the fabric/fiber that you will be using the product on and make sure it does not discolor, stain, or bleed. I have never had any problems, but it is always best to check beforehand.
4. Belly Bands. Sometimes these can be a (male) mill dog owner’s best friend. Belly bands can be easily made at home out of things you probably already have. Depending on the size of your dog you can use the elastic end of tube socks, the sleeve of a sweatshirt, etc. Simply fit the material to your dog and then place a female sanitary napkin under the penis. Another easy way is to measure your dog, cut the fabric and sew on Velcro to hold it in place. There are also many sites on the Internet to order these if making them yourself is just not up your alley. Just remember to take the belly band off every time you bring your dog out to potty. Again, this is not a solution, but a protective measure.
Quirks:
Poo-poo, shoo-shoo, ca-ca, doo-doo, #2, feces, poop, stool...whatever 'pet' name you give it, it's still gross! But nothing is more gross than owning a dog who eats poop!

Coprophagia is the technical term, but for the purpose of this article, we're just going to call it the 'affliction'.

Dogs of all breeds, ages and sizes have the affliction but in puppy mill rescues, it is not uncommon at all to find dogs afflicted with this horrible habit. As in any bad habit, the cure lies in understanding the unacceptable behavior.

There are three primary reasons that a puppy mill survivor is afflicted. We'll start with the most common, and easiest to remedy.

1. It tastes good and they are hungry! Rescues that have come from a mill where dogs were not fed properly often resort to eating their own or other dog's feces as a source of food. These types of situations will usually remedy themselves when the dog realizes that he is always going to get fed. It is also easy to discourage this behavior by adding over-the-counter products to their food which are manufactured for this purpose. Ask your vet which products are available and you will normally see results in 2-4 weeks.

2. Learned behavior. This is usually the cause of puppy mill dogs that have the affliction. There are several reasons why a dog learned to behave like this, but the most common cause is being housed with dominant dogs who fight over food. These dominant dogs will often guard the food dish and prevent the more submissive dogs from eating even if the dominant dog is not hungry. Food aggression in caged dogs is usually fast and furious and often results in severe injury to the submissive dogs. Because the dominant dog is often eating much more than is needed, the stool is virtually undigested and contains many of the nutrients and 'flavors' of the original meal; therefore almost as tasty to the submissive dog as if he'd ate the real thing. Puppies that were raised with a dominant mother or dominant litter mates also pick up this habit very early--in this case, it is a little harder to treat, but it can usually be done.

This eating pattern is usually maintained throughout the dog's life, so the age of your dog will play a big role in how hard it is to correct the behavior. It's become habit...and as the saying goes, "Old habits are hard to break".

Dogs with the affliction will actually go hunting for a fresh stool when you take them outside. The key is to give your dog something better to hunt for. Pop some unbuttered/unsalted microwave popcorn and sprinkle it on the lawn before taking your dog out in the morning. You may find something that he likes better and is as readily available and affordable. The good thing about popcorn is what your dog doesn't eat, the birds will. We can almost guarantee that once your dog has learned to search out the popcorn, he'll pass those fresh turds right up, LOL! It may take weeks or months before your dog 'unlearns' to seek out stools but most dogs are receptive to this training. You may have to sprinkle the lawn with popcorn the rest of your dog's life...but the trouble is well worth just one 'popcorn kiss' as opposed to a lick on the face right after he eats a tasty turd.

3. As mentioned above, Coprophagia means 'eating poop'. Coprophagia is a form of a much more serious problem called Pica. Pica is the unnatural compulsion to eat foreign objects. Dogs suffering from Pica will eat not only stools, but rocks, dirt, sticks, etc. Remember the kid in school who ate paste and chalk and “other unspeakables?’ Pica is a psychological disorder which is much more in depth and serious than anything we can discuss in this guide.

A good rescuer will observe dogs prior to placement and will recognize the seriousness of this problem. A dog suffering from Pica should never be placed in an inexperienced home or any home that is not aware of the problem and the dangers. Dogs suffering from Pica will often end up having surgery--.often several times--for objects they have eaten that can not be digested. If you are the owner of a dog which you believe suffers from Pica, I suggest you consult your vet; these dogs often require medication for their disorder and only your vet can guide you on the best way to proceed.

Before we close this section on Pica, we want to say that true Pica is rare. Most dogs will chew on sticks or rocks--or sofas and table legs. However a dog suffering from Pica will not just chew on these items...they will eat these items any chance they get. Just because your dog is eating his own stool...and also the bar stool at the kitchen counter...does not mean that he is suffering from Pica. If in doubt, consult your vet.
The "special" ones:
Occasionally, we see the survivor who has survived the mill, but at such a great cost that they can never be "brought around". These are the dogs that have endured so much suffering that they remind us of children who are abused, and survive by separating their mind from the body. These damaged dogs will never fully trust anyone. So where does that leave these poor souls? Most are still capable of living out a wonderful life. They need a scheduled environment but most importantly, a home where they are accepted for who and what they are. They may never jump up on a couch and cuddle with you, or bring you a ball to play catch, but you will see the joy that they take in living each day knowing that they will have clean bedding, fresh food and water, and unconditional love. To them, those small comforts alone are pure bliss.
These "broken ones" are the ones that normally never leave their foster homes. Ironically, these types of dogs normally do very well in a group-dog setting. They seem to have shunned the world, and most certainly mankind, and have created their own little world without humans. Whenever we suspect that a mill rescue may be "too far gone" for a fast paced family, we try to place them in experienced homes; quiet homes; or homes with other dogs. These are by far the hardest ones for our hearts to accept, but they are also a constant reminder of why we do what we do.
The educators:
Finding forever homes for mill rescues is not all we do; we are constantly reminded of the horrors of puppy mills and the commercialization/farming of dogs when we see the neglect and abuse these dogs have suffered. We work not only to adopt dogs, but to educate their new owners about the truth behind that puppy in the pet store window. We hope that you will keep a journal or blog on the reform of your puppy mill dog, and we hope that you will join us in our campaign to educate the public--through the eyes of the survivors--by always taking the opportunity to further educate others. Together we have made a difference in the life of just one dog, but together we can also make a difference in the lives of hundreds of thousands of dogs still caged in puppy mills. It is only when the public realizes the connection between pet stores and puppy mills that we will end the demand, end the supply, and end the abuse!
Copyright A New Start on Life, 2007



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I'm sure I can't provide much more than what Blanche already posted but with Lucy it just took time. She still spins but it's mostly just when she gets worked up about something (doorbell, dog on TV, we get up and leave the room, etc). In the beginning, she was spinning and pacing all the time. The first few nights, she wouldn't even settle enough to sleep. It only took a few days though for her to at least relax enough to sleep at night. She certainly hadn't been through what this little girl has though. I just try to distract her. I'll either show her a toy or get up and leave the room so she stops spinning in order to follow me. At this point, it's not something she's ever going to completely stop doing but it's no longer at the point where I feel it's interfering with her life. Can't wait to hear more about this little girl!

My Gracie is a spinner. I got her at 9 months old from alabama pug rescue and she would spin all the time. At the time she was just visually impaired but now she is totally blind. With her, spinning started if it was very quiet and she could not hear me and felt stressed. Most of the time, I would just have to call her name and touch her. Once she knew I was there, she would re-direct and be fine.

She rarely spins now. mainly if I take her out somewhere that she is not familiar. I think it is more of an anxiety behavior now. As long as she is on her turf she is ok. If she is out of her comfort zone, she will still spin.

Lost of love and patience.

Thanks for all of the info. I know it's going to take a lot of time, patience and love for her to adjust. Lucky for her, we have plenty of that here. We're excited to be able to foster her and can't wait to give her the love and care she deserves.

So, Dory is here. Not nearly as bad as I was anticipating and as she was at the vet. She spins with anxiety and excitement. It's not a constant thing at all. Also they were told she is incontinent, but I don't see it. She peed outside at the vet and marked, so to me that means (marking) that she can control it. So far, no accidents in the house and she's been here 7 hours. She went when we took her outside. I've chosen to forgo the diapers for now. Not to mention it's pretty hard to keep a diaper on a pug with no tail. We were also told that she has seizures, but she was on such a low dose of phenobarbitol that the vet said it wouldn't even help her if she was prone to seizures. She never had any when she was with us before. They also had her on a super low dose of meds for anxiety (spinning), but again so low that it wouldn't do her any good. We've stopped all her meds except the eye meds to see what happens.

She is such a sweet, loving little girl. It breaks my heart that someone could have been so cruel to her. She gets along great with Mack and SueShi and they all love to play. I'm so lucky to be able to foster her. I can't believe she was going to be put to sleep if we had not taken her in.

That's some potentially good news!